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‘We’ve had Biden’s security and US marines here’: Cornwall crowds enjoy G7 circus

Asked to rate his holiday in St Ives, six-year-old Bertie did not hesitate: “Fifteen out of 10. I’ve liked everything.”

He’s loved playing on the sandy beach and paddling in the harbour, but also enjoyed the show created by the G7 summit taking place across the bay – the naval ships, the military helicopters, the police officers buzzing around on boats and jet-skis.

Bertie even joined in the dancing when the loud, colourful Extinction Rebellion marched through town and across the beach to the beat of hundreds of drums.

The arrival of the G7 circus in Cornwall has made this a trip unlike any other for the thousands of visitors who have been holidaying on the fringes of the summit.

“It’s been quite an experience,” said Bertie’s father, Mark Leatham, from Stockport. “If anything, G7 has added to the experience.” One downside was a dawn demo by Ocean Rebellion, which involved blasting a foghorn in the direction of Carbis Bay, the main summit venue. “I’m not sure it would have woken Boris Johnson up but it certainly did the job for us,” said Leatham.

While some tourists have been put off by the concerns over delays and jams, others actually headed to the area to soak in the atmosphere. Lewis Williams, 17, took a day trip from Penzance. “You don’t often have something like this on your doorstep,” he said as he waited in Carbis Bay for a glimpse of Joe Biden’s cavalcade.

Some parents have turned the presence of so many security staff into a game. Officers from more than 40 other police forces are helping Devon and Cornwall keep order, and one imaginative mum created an “I spy” game – five points for every local officer spotted, 20 for the Met, 50 for a Scottish one and so on.

Usually, the customers in the cafes and restaurants that line the harbour watch the comings and goings of the fishing and pleasure boats. This week, the stars have been the naval and police marine unit vessels with visitors downloading boat tracking apps to keep an eye on who is who.

Many tourism businesses have been a little quieter, with day-trippers put off by the warning signs on the main route into Cornwall telling people to keep away.

Graeme Parkhill, manager of the Pengenna Pasties shop, said he had served fewer tourists. “But we’ve had members of Biden’s security detail here, US marines, police officers, protesters. We’ll sell a pasty to anyone.”

The New Craftsman Gallery is selling postcards of a lighthearted painting by the local artist Jenny Birchall of a fantasy scene in which members of the G7 in swimsuits cavort on the beach – watched by political figures of the past and present including Nelson Mandela, the Obamas and Che Guevara.

While many St Ives residents have fled, others have stayed and enjoyed the event. GP Jane Lucas-McGrath and her husband, account manager Andy, who live on the hill above the harbour, said their children, Alfie, four and Olivia, 19 months, were relishing the excitement. “We’re going to let Alfie stay up late to see the Red Arrows,” said Jane.

There have been hitches. Alan and Helena Walters, 77 and 59, from Shropshire, were only “vaguely aware” there was a summit when they booked their break and were surprised to be confronted by thousands of police officers out on the streets.

Related: G7 leaders in Cornwall – in pictures

They were having to cut their holiday short because of changes to the local rail service brought in for security reasons. “That is frustrating,” said Alan, also a GP. “We were being environmentally friendly by travelling by train. It’s ironic that a lot of G7 is about the environment but the trains aren’t working properly.”

Still, the couple have had a lovely time. “Nothing could spoil St Ives,” said Helena. “It’s such a magical place.”