I visited 'charming' Italian city but felt unwelcome and uneasy

An aerial view of Palermo
-Credit: (Image: Getty)


Sicily is quickly becoming a top destination for travellers, with direct flights from the UK, pleasant weather lasting until October, and an array of beautiful beaches. However, after visiting with her partner, Reach journalist Sophie Law says their trip to Palermo, the island's tourist hub, completely transformed their perception of this enchanting island and its amiable inhabitants.

Here, she writes about her experiences

Strolling through the sun-kissed streets of Palermo, I was struck by the city's vibrant atmosphere and magnificent historic edifices. My partner and I paused in the city for a single night before our subsequent flight, affording us just enough time to soak in the urban landscape.

Having been to several renowned spots in Sicily like Taormina, Catania, and the Aeolian Islands, Palermo presented itself as distinctly unique, reports the Express. This lively Mediterranean centre thrummed with energetic markets, singular architecture, and cuisine influenced by its diverse past of Greeks, Romans, and Arabs.

Yet, as we wandered the ancient streets, my partner and I couldn't overlook the graffiti scrawled by activist groups, marking everything from decaying alleys to tourist information plaques.

"Tourists go home," one declared. Another inscription, sprawled over a city map, translated to "Where am I? What did we grow up on? Where did all the others go? And why did I decide to return?"

View of street in Palermo, Sicily
A street in Palermo, Sicily. -Credit:Sophie Law

Palermo, like many other European destinations, is grappling with the issue of over tourism, and its residents are pushing back against the influx of visitors each year. Sicily has been particularly hard hit by a severe drought this summer, which has reportedly been exacerbated by the presence of tourists. There have been instances where hotels had to turn away guests due to water shortages.

However, Palermo isn't the only city resisting the surge in tourist numbers. In Tenerife, protesters have gone on hunger strikes, while in Barcelona, locals have resorted to spraying tourists with water pistols.

Anti-tourist graffiti has also been seen in major tourist centres across Europe, and protests against tourism have taken place in Greece, Italy, Portugal, The Netherlands, and most notably Spain.

In most of these locations, residents are pushing back against the strain that rising visitor numbers are putting on health services, waste management, water supplies, and housing, all at the expense of local inhabitants.

Walls were spray-painted with anti-tourism graffiti
Walls were spray-painted with anti-tourism graffiti -Credit:Sophie Law

Interestingly, while many places have adapted to cater to tourists, with English-speaking locals, Irish pubs, and restaurants serving full English breakfasts, Palermo remains an authentic city. It's no surprise that it wants to stay that way.

Seeing anti-tourist signs not only made us feel unwelcome and slightly uneasy, but it also made me reconsider the impact my holiday has on those who call the place home.

I have no desire to be just another tourist, seeking sun, sand and Aperol Spritz without considering the impact on local resources like water.

Despite Palermo's undeniable charm, with its bustling streets, warm climate and stunning beaches along the Tyrrhenian Sea, I'll be doing my homework before returning during the high season.

Given the growing discontent in many places about tourism, it's prompted me to think about my own footprint as a traveller. Maybe it's time to explore less popular destinations.