I visited one of UK's most iconic seaside towns — it was so much better than I remember

Palm trees and St Catherines Island at Tenby
-Credit: (Image: Getty Images)


For years, I held a misguided belief that this iconic seaside town was a place I wanted to avoid. This could have been due to some distorted memories from my moody teenage years and early adulthood, or perhaps the town wasn't as appealing back then and has since undergone a significant transformation. It could be a combination of both.

Regardless, after two decades of vowing never to return to Tenby, I now find myself yearning to live there. I regret not revisiting sooner to fully appreciate its charm. The town is simply delightful for numerous reasons, from its array of enticing eateries and pubs, four beaches within a stone's throw from the town centre and vibrant houses that are globally recognised, to the awe-inspiring beauty of Pembrokeshire that envelops it.

Whether you're a family with young kids, a group of friends planning a weekend getaway, or a young couple seeking the perfect blend of serene beaches, quaint cobbled lanes, countryside strolls and a lively nightlife, Tenby is an ideal destination. It's no surprise that it was listed among Britain's "best" seaside towns in 2024, reports Wales Online.

Tenby has now become a staple in my life, as well as the lives of my family and friends. If I can't reside there, I want the next best thing: visiting as frequently as possible.

To that end, my mates and I now rent a house once a year, and we also take summer holidays there as a family too. Here are just some of the things you can do in and around Tenby that make it so unique.

So many beaches

One of Tenby's standout features is the fact that you can easily access four different beaches on foot from the town centre within minutes. North and South Beach are large and wide open at low tide (with great waves at high tide).

North Beach is distinguished by the jagged rock which rises from its heart, where you can explore rock pools at low tide. Between those two beaches are the smaller Harbour Beach, where you'll find the town's fleet of small fishing boats moored, and Castle Beach, which is sandwiched between two rocky outcrops, one of which is home to a distinctive clifftop fort.

Island boat trips

Caldey Island is a truly remarkable place and one of Britain's "holy islands". There has been a monastic presence here for centuries, and their current home is a beautiful, white, Italianate-style monastery built in 1906. You'll also find the 13th century St Illtyd's Church. But the true joy of Caldey Island is to be found roaming from one end of the island to the other. En route you'll pass horses grazing in fields and even a functioning chocolate factory, where you can buy a bar.

Once you've journeyed to the farthest point of the island, you can soak in the tranquil atmosphere and stunning sea views. Caldey Island is accessible by boat from Tenby, with regular services operating to and from Tenby's harbour. Upon arrival at Caldey, visitors are greeted by a pristine, near-white sandy beach that could easily be mistaken for a Caribbean shoreline. With the majority of tourists flocking to Tenby's beaches, this could be your chance to enjoy a secluded beach experience.

Pembrokeshire on your doorstep

Tenby is merely one of the many gems in Pembrokshire's treasure trove. There's an abundance of activities and sights to see, but I'll just mention a few standouts.

Firstly, there's the plethora of beautiful beaches along its breathtaking coastline, including Freshwater West (home to Dobby's "grave" from Harry Potter) and Barafundle, previously voted as one of the UK's top beaches.

A scenic walk from Bosherston will lead you to Barafundle, passing through serene lily ponds along the way. Nearby lies the rugged St Govan's Head, which houses one of Britain's most unique coastal features: St Govan's chapel, a 13th or 14th-century structure embedded into the cliff face, with the powerful waves crashing below.

This corner of Pembrokeshire also hosts the Stackpole nature reserve, while further north, the rolling Preseli Hills offer a starkly beautiful landscape.

Ancient and old landmarks

Pembrokeshire's rich history is evident in its numerous man-made landmarks that span centuries. Among these is the Pentre Ifan burial chamber, a relic from Neolithic (New Stone Age) times when our forebears interred their dead in such tombs.

The county also boasts several castles, largely due to the Landsker Line, which historically divided the Welsh in the north of the county from the Norman and Flemish settlers in the south.

One such castle is Carew Castle, majestically perched above the tidal waters where the Carew river merges with the channel. The tidal range here is so significant that the view can drastically change depending on the time of day you visit. The walls surrounding the nearby tidal mill are perfect for crabbing. Simply drop your net and bait, and you're almost certain to catch a crab.

Where to eat and drink in Tenby

When it comes to dining and drinking in Tenby, the town doesn't disappoint. There's Tap and Tan, a unique combination of a barbecue joint and craft beer haven, where meat is grilled on open flames right before your eyes.

In one of Tenby's oldest and most charming buildings, you'll discover Plantagenet House, located next to the town's Tudor merchant house and partially dating back to medieval times.

Down Sergeant's Lane, you'll discover the Harbwr Brewery. Once an abandoned and overgrown alleyway, it has been transformed into a charming, cobbled lane where you can order a drink directly from the brewery itself and enjoy people-watching.

There's also an attached pub. As you stroll down to the harbour, you'll come across a shack selling crab sandwiches and lobster rolls, as well as The Stowaway, a cosy spot for coffee and cake, tucked away underground in an old archway.

Where to stay in Tenby

Tenby offers a wide range of accommodation options, including hotels, B&Bs, and AirBnbs. You'll find standard chain hotels like Premier Inn and Travelodge, along with numerous independent ones, many situated along the seafront.

However, the real charm lies in discovering a unique house or converted apartment on the seafront, which you might find on Booking.com or Airbnb. Many of the colourful seafront homes that Tenby is renowned for are available for rent.

My family stayed in a spacious flat just steps away from the harbour and beach, and there are entire homes available for hire with sea views.

It's worth bearing in mind that, like many parts of Wales and the UK, Pembrokeshire does have a significant issue with homes being purchased and rented out to visitors, rather than being occupied by the local population.