I visited town where the lure of its unrivalled past and vibrant culture continue to draw the crowds

There's so much to see and learn within a short distance in this ancient and arguably underated Welsh town. There may not be a pier, an Italianate village, a Zip World attraction or a Hollywood actor-owned football club but it's crammed with history, culture and things to do.

As someone in the know once pointed out to me: "Caernarfon IS the attraction". How right he was.

I visited this proud bastion once again this week to savour just a smattering of the things it can offer. Get all the latest Gwynedd news by signing up to our newsletter

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I tried to park at Caernarfon Harbour Trust's Slate Quay car park which was packed this August lunchtime despite some drizzle. Frustrated drivers like me scoured the rows of vehicles to spot a tourist, keys jangling, returning to their car and freeing up a space, which some eventually did.

Rather than make for the castle though - the last time I was inside it snow blanketed the cannons - I made for the little castle above Coed Helen park - which I'd wanted to see close up for some time - which gives a good vantage point to see the town.

There's a winding path through the trees and up a field but the view makes the considerable effort worth it. Afterwards, I headed back down to the Swing Bridge and read a note explaining the history of that little castle.

"The small building with a castellated top was built in 1822 for the operator of the Coed Helen ferry. The Pritchard family of boat owners and builders ran the ferry from c. 1859. In 1878 David Pritchard was praised for his prompt action to save a militiaman (volunteer soldier) who fell between the quay and boat while boarding. David died, aged 76, in 1884."

From here charming boats, marooned by the tide, still fill the foreground of any photo of the controversial castle, ferris wheel and the River Seiont.

Whatever your view of it, the scale of Edward I's 13th Century castle is truly immense. It took 47 years to build the castle, town walls and quay and cost a staggering £25,000.

The Cadw-run castle, designed by king's architect Master of St George and with angular towers reputedly like those in Constantinople now Istanbul, continues to lure visitors in their thousands. There are around 200,000 a year and I heard some French tourists emerging and contemplating their next move.

I was getting hungry but didn't have time for a sit down meal. So I went across Y Maes to the Spar shop for a sandwich. I noticed there is currently a funfair there to help occupy the kids in the school holidays and yet more tourists - cruise ship passengers, I believe - were gathering under the statue of former Prime Minister David Lloyd George.

After eating the sandwich in the car I could see the nearby Cei Llechi or Slate Quay with its advertisement for an artisan shopping village. It's wonderful that this historic site is being well-used.

And nearby of course is the station for the 25-mile long Welsh Highland Railway with services on this much-loved heritage line taking passengers to Porthmadog and back.

Other attractions in Caernarfon include the Victoria Dock and marina, and the nearby St Mary's Church, built in 1307, with its ancient chantry.

But today time was almost up and in any case the rain was atrocious by now. It was time to go but there's so much to learn about this town's heritage by visiting the Segontium Roman Fort and Museum and the Royal Welch Fusiliers Museum at the castle to name but two examples.

Either that or have a drink or two at characterful pubs like The Anglesey, Ty Dre Town House, Y Goron and The Black Boy Inn. Or you could take a boat trip, go crabbing or try Yr Hwylfan fun centre on rainy days like these.

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