Whip it! The culinary technique revolutionising our restaurants

With a quick whisk and a handful of vanilla seeds, the yoghurt at 26 Grains in Neal’s Yard is transformed into a puffed-up mousse, far removed from the usual pots of the white stuff. This yoghurt becomes a headline ingredient, beyond its usual status as a base or a side to take the edge off more dominant flavours.

It is served with seasonal apple compôte and salty, savoury buckwheat crumb with almonds in it — the yoghurt is an alkaline antidote that offsets the sharp fruit but whipped it becomes more of an event. They also serve it with plum and bay compôte and cacao crumb.

Founder Alex Hely-Hutchinson explains the appeal. “It’s light and indulgent and extremely versatile. You can add it to breakfast toast as well as whipping with ricotta for a savoury dish. It’s also simple to make.”

London is whipping up a storm. Anna Jones, who has teamed up with 26 Grains, also whips feta. She says this “takes the crumbling, salted cheese to a new level of versatility”.

At BabaBoom charcoal kebab kitchen in Battersea feta is double whipped to break it down and emulsify it, “giving an even texture”. On the second whip they add yoghurt and garlic-infused olive oil. They say: “These ingredients are best enjoyed whipped because they’re rich. Whipping gives you the same impact of flavour, with lightness and a smaller amount giving the same impact.”

Making a rich ingredient less overwhelming is part of the appeal with Caravan’s whipped morcilla too. The Spanish blood sausage is served with a roti and herbs. Miles Kirby at Caravan says the dish came about by “happy accident” when he saw chefs “spreading the sausage on toast”. He says: “Whipping any ingredient generally aerates and adds to its texture and feel in the mouth. Ice-cream for example is slowly aerated as it churns for lightness.”

Providores also whips yoghurt but serve it with eggs. Founder Peter Gordon says: “We whip the yoghurt in our Turkish eggs because we incorporate extra virgin olive oil into it, and this is the only way to emulsify the two. Whipping the yoghurt makes it much lighter and gives it more fluff, which makes it more pleasant to eat with the eggs.” Get whip smart.