The five types of English wine to buy now

Today is the start of English wine week (15-23 June), and vineyard owners will be hoping for weather that makes us feel like sitting out in the garden with a glass of sparkling. That’s not just for marketing reasons. The second half of June is an important time for English vines because that’s usually when they are flowering. If you find yourself reaching for an umbrella and galoshes this week and don’t have to worry about poor pollination, count yourself lucky. Concern yourself instead with which English wine to put in your fridge. I’ve made an edit here of some of the styles that England is currently doing best.

First up, still chardonnay. During the past couple of years, I’ve written a few times in this spot about the rise of English chardonnay, but even so I keep seeing it cross quality thresholds that take me by surprise. One problem with still English wine is usually the price. Yet at a recent M&S press tasting, where I sampled more than 100 wines from all over the world, an English chardonnay sailed into my top dozen buys. It’s the Balfour Chardonnay in this week’s picks, and it stood out as simply one of the best wines in the room for its price.

Busi Jacobsohn Rosé 2019 (12%, yapp.co.uk, £39.75)

Second, sparkling rosé. Most people don’t often buy rosé Champagne. I taste a fair bit, and am always shocked at how little of it I would look forward to drinking. England has a much better hit rate: we do sparkling rosé particularly well. Good ones include the Busi Jacobsohn Rosé 2019 (12%, yapp.co.uk, £39.75), made entirely from pinot – 75% pinot noir, 25% meunier – and has a fairly substantial yet delicate and subtly textured feel. Gusbourne Rosé 2019 (12%, Lockett Bros, £55) is a wine of great finesse. The Grange Pink NV, Hampshire (12%, Haynes Hanson & Clark, £40.25, or £35.75 in a case of six) is another beautiful example. As is the one from Langham Estate (see also below).

Langham Estate Corallian Brut NV, England (12%, Lea & Sandeman, £31.95, or £29.95 in a mixed six)

Third, sparkling whites. The brilliant, elegant Langham Estate Corallian Brut NV, England (12%, Lea & Sandeman, £31.95, or £29.95 in a mixed six) earns another recommendation for this all-round excellent producer. I also highly rate the more biscuity Coates & Seely Brut Reserve NV (12%, Lea & Sandeman, £36.95, or £33.95 in a mixed six). Some of the English blanc de noirs is impressive too. Check out the dense, dark cherry flavours of Harrow & Hope 2018, Buckinghamshire (12%, Grape Britannia, £41.99), made entirely from pinot noir.

Fourth, very high quality sparkling wines. Look to Hundred Hills in Oxfordshire for some of the best. I was also impressed by the newly released Black Chalk Paragon (see selection).

Camel Valley Bacchus 2022, Cornwall (12.5%, waitrosecellar.com, £17.49, or £13.12 in a mixed six)

Fifth, England’s modern winemaking era began with Germanic varieties that thrive in cooler climates, and bacchus was hailed as a variety that could become England’s signature grape. For a while it seemed sparkling wines might push bacchus into the sidelines, but winemakers continue to experiment, and the wines continue to improve. Mineral and grassy, some bacchus is very good. Try Camel Valley Bacchus 2022, Cornwall (12.5%, waitrosecellar.com, £17.49, or £13.12 in a mixed six), or for something richer and more complex, Wraxall Bacchus Reserve 2022 (12.5%, wraxallvineyard.co.uk, £22) is made from Somerset-grown grapes fermented in old oak, and has flavours of stone fruit alongside the vivid grass. Pour a glass with roast chicken.

Try these...

M&S Balfour Chardonnay 2022, Kent

12.5%, M&S, £14; Ocado £14

If you like chablis try this very attractive, vivid chardonnay made in Kent. It is bone dry, with no oak and a refreshing vein of lemony acidity.

Roebuck Estates Reserve Brut 2020, Sussex

12%, Majestic, £38.99 or £26.99 in a mixed six

A good buy on the mix six price, this elegant sparkler is made from grapes grown in Sussex. The base is chardonnay with 29% pinot noir and 15% meunier.

Black Chalk Paragon Brut 2020, Hampshire

12.5%, blackchalkwine.co.uk, £65

A very limited edition (there are just 3,535 bottles) of the new blanc de blancs from Black Chalk; a very nervy, pure, all-chardonnay sparkling wine.