Harry Styles designer Molly Goddard debuts London Fashion Week collection

Molly Goddard presented a much more wearable version of her style at London Fashion Week.

Goddard has made a name for herself with voluminous, tulle-heavy dresses, and her latest offering – shown in London – featured a more pared-back aesthetic.

A model on the catwalk at Molly Goddard's AW23 London Fashion Week show
Molly Goddard showcased a more wearable take on her tulle-heavy trademark style (Ben Broomfield/Handout/PA)

In the show notes, Goddard said she started work on this collection in the library of Central Saint Martins – the university she graduated from in 2012.

She said her inspiration for much of the collection was based on nostalgia, looking back at some of the pieces of clothing she owned as a child and teenager – including leopard print jeans and sporty knitwear.

In fact, knitwear was prominent throughout the collection, in muted tones with pops of coloured stripes.

A model on the Molly Goddard runway at AW23 London Fashion Week, wearing a long red tulle skirt with a patterned woollen jumper and grey jacket, carrying an oversized slouchy bag
Knitwear also featured in Molly Goddard’s AW23 London Fashion Week collection (Ben Broomfield/Handout/PA)

There was an emphasis on environmentally-friendly fashion too, with the show notes reading: “We looked through the MG archive — pulling out pieces that had worked, and pieces that hadn’t — restyling, reshaping, changing the fabric, refining.”

Goddard’s signature tulle was still present, but in a more subdued form. There were single-layered tulle dresses, as well as skirts with dedicated panels, making for a less maximalist approach.

While there were fewer big gowns than Goddard’s audience might be used to, there were still some dresses that could work for the red carpet.

A model on the runway at the Molly Goddard AW23 London Fashion Week show
Hints of gothic glam in Molly Goddard’s AW23 London Fashion Week collection (Ben Broomfield/Handout/PA)

Gothic glamour has emerged as a strong trend during awards season this year so far, and celebrities might find Goddard’s subtle black and navy dresses suit the look.

The designer’s first big pop culture moment came in 2019, when she dressed Jodie Comer’s character Villanelle in an extravagant pale pink gown for an episode of Killing Eve.

She made a further splash in 2022, when Harry Styles announced his new album, Harry’s House, in a head-to-toe Goddard look, made up of a white T-shirt with a Peter Pan collar, wide-legged jeans and ballet pumps.