Oman on four wheels: a road trip around the Sultanate

“What are you going to see in Oman?” was my mum’s first reaction when I told her I was travelling there to write a travel piece.

“Turquoise beaches, rugged mountains and wind-swept deserts” I told her. Yes, Oman is all of that but what really sets it apart from its flashy neighbours is its ancient soul and warm hospitality. From customary coffee and dates to dishdasha (long white gowns worn by men), this Middle Eastern country oozes traditional charm.

Oman underwent a major facelift under the leadership of its current ruler Sultan Qaboos, who transformed the country with large-scale infrastructure projects after he rose to power in 1970. Today first class roads connect even the most remote villages giving travellers the opportunity to experience its rich heritage at their own pace.

Driving around the country is fairly straightforward, as all road signs are marked in Arabic and English. Car hire companies have offices at the airport and follow the standard license (most international permits work) and car insurance checks. Certain roads in Oman can only be accessed by a four-wheel drive so pick a car to suit your itinerary. For those sceptical to get behind the wheel, multilingual guides can be booked through a tour company.

Self-drive or not, here are a few ideas to help you plan your road trip around Oman.

The capital city of Muscat has some spectacular buildings but the most prominent is Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Ordered by the Sultan and named after him, the mosque opened its doors in 2001 after six years in the making, something that’s evident in its grandeur and attention to detail. A short distance from the mosque is the Royal Opera House, which has become the leading venue for musical arts and culture.

While a lot of Muscat may seem like it was built yesterday, there are pockets of Arabian charm not to be missed. Hidden away by coastal mountains, Old Muscat has plenty of small alleyways and cobbled streets to take you back in time. Watch the sun go down at one of its various viewpoints and head to Muttrah Souk for dinner and retail therapy.

Nizwa

An hour and a half (86 miles) from Muscat is Oman’s former capital Nizwa, a rustic looking city home to the most visited national monument Nizwa Fort. Oman is an Instagrammer’s paradise and nowhere screams more picture-perfect than Nakhal Fort and the recently touched-up Nizwa souk. Shops in the terracotta-coloured market sell everything from fish to handicrafts. Whilst there, don’t forget to get your hands on some dates and try the best Omani halwa (made with dates, sugar and dried fruits) at Al-Saifi.

Jibreen Castle

26 miles west of Nizwa and definitely worth a little detour is 17th-century Jibreen Castle. This immaculately kept three-story building has two viewing towers; plenty of interesting rooms and a beautiful courtyard with intricately carved wooden windows. The most significant - and ventilated- room in the castle is the Sun and Moon Hall with a whopping 14 windows.

Jabal Akhdar

Occupying a stretch within the Al Hajar mountain range, Jabal Akhdar or ‘The Green Mountain’ provides a welcome relief from the heat – temperatures here are usually a lot cooler than the rest of the country. Accessible only by four-wheel drive, this region (20 miles from Jibreen Castle) has become the go-to place for hikers, climbers and nature lovers. Diana’s point – named after her visit in 1986 – overlooks some of the green terraces that gave the mountain its name. You can also hike up a dizzying 3000 metres to Jabal Shams - the highest point in Oman.

Where to stay: Perched on top of Al Sayq plateau is a structure so, in harmony with nature, you can barely see it. Alila Jabal Akhdar offers spine-tingling views of the canyon, a first-rate spa and various adventures trails.

Wahiba Sands

Formerly known as Sharqiya Sands, the vast desert area flaunts two-tone dunes that change with the wind. 142 miles towards Sur, Wahiba is also where Oman’s Bedouin community resides. You can spend the night in a desert camp, stargazing and enjoying the nomad way of life.

Wadi Bani Khalid

Folding cliffs, swaying palm trees and water deposits form a unique surrounding in the Hajar Mountains called ‘Wadis’. Bani Khalid (60 miles from Wahiba) is a popular destination with locals and travellers looking to cool off from the searing heat. Dip your feet in any of its two pools to get a free fish pedicure.

Ras Al Jinz

This is where the rising sun’s first rays strike land and like most of Oman, it does it in style – with towering limestone on one side and blue sea on the other. 51 miles from Bani Khalid, Ras Al Jinz is one of the most important sanctuaries for the endangered green turtle. 30,000 female turtles hit its shores every year to lay eggs, mostly in the spots that they themselves hatched. The 45 km coastal stretch of Ras Al Hadd and Ras Al Jinz was given protected status by royal decree in 2008 in the interest of conservation. Visitors can watch the turtles dig a nest, cover it up and return to the sea between 8pm-9pm and 5am under strict surveillance by the reserve.

Tip: The number of visitors is restricted so book your turtle-viewing experience in advance. Having done both, I would recommend the 5am time slot where you can also enjoy a spectacular sunrise.

Where to stay: Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve provides accommodation on site - there are rooms in the main building and luxury tents with sea views for those who want to camp.

Take the coastal road back to Muscat with stops at a dhow-making (traditional wooden boats) factory in Sur, go to the cave in Wadi Shab and admire the natural phenomenon that is Bimmah Sink Hole.

Muscat to the Musandam Peninsula (310 miles)

Separated from the rest of Oman by the UAE, the northeastern tip of the Sultanate is a paradise for mountain and marine lovers. The charming port town of Khasab is cosy and offers a good selection of hotels and historical sights dating back to the Iron Age. Combine your city tour with a 4x4 adventure to Khor Najd for awe-inspiring views of mountain-draped roads, and then head up 1800 metres to Jebel Harim.

A trip to Musandam would be incomplete without taking it to the sea in a traditional dhow boat. The relaxed day cruise offers you a chance to get up close and personal with schools of dolphins, go snorkelling and enjoy the magnificent fjords.

Getting there: Regular flights operate from Muscat to Khasab. It can also be reached by sea ferry, or by road travelling through the United Arab Emirates.

Where to stay: Located less than a mile from Khasab Fort, rooms at Atana Musandam provide unobstructed views of the sea.

Muscat to Salalah (630 miles)

Capital of the southern province of Dhofar, Salalah is the second largest city in the Sultanate of Oman and the birthplace of Sultan Qaboos bin Said. Its pleasant weather has made it a popular destination for tourists all year round but especially during the monsoon season of Khareef from June to September when the desert terrain turns lush green.

To the east of Salalah lies the sardine fishing village of Taqah, which boasts a charming 19th-century castle and museum. Also worth a visit is the Sumhuram Archaeological Park, which was once the palace of the Queen of Sheba and an important conduit for the international frankincense trade network.

Head west for Al Mughsayl beach and Al- Marneef caves where you can witness streaming jets of seawater pushing out of blowholes.

Getting there: Daily flights operate between Muscat and Salalah and flying time is a short 2 hours.

Tip: Grab yourself a coconut from one of several fruit huts that line the streets.

Where to stay: Al Baleed Resort by Anantara offers private pool villas overlooking the sea, a spa and three restaurants serving the best food in town. Try the cocktails at their Mekong restaurant - they’re sublime.

UK nationals need a visa to visit Oman. You can apply for an e-visa before you fly via omanvisagov.com

For more details, go to experienceoman.om

Oman Air operates daily flight from London Heathrow to Muscat and domestic connections to Salalah and Khasab.

Old Muscat Tourism, Khasab Travel and Tours and Al Fawaz Tours provide itinerary assistance and guided tours in Oman.