Beyond the pisco sour: explore South America's hottest spirit

You may be familiar with pisco as the star ingredient in a tart, frothy (and increasingly fashionable) pisco sour, but there's more to the grape brandy, which is the national spirit of both Peru and Chile, than a single cocktail. 

The best expressions of this Latin American aguardiente can have an aromatic, floral quality - hints of roses, jasmine and candied citrus - and a complexity which will interest gin fans. 

Pisco's story begins in the 16th century, when the Spanish conquistadores bought grape vines to South America in order to make their own wine. Excellent growing conditions led to an abundance of good grapes, and wines which rivalled - and eventually threatened the profits of - those made in Europe. As a result, Philip IV imposed heavy taxes on Latin American wine - but this didn't deter the locals from viticulture. 

Much of the fruit was instead distilled into a type of grape brandy, later named pisco, made using techniques imported from Cognac (the first distillation device, or alambique, was registered in 1586 in Santiago, Chile). It became popular in both Peru and Chile and today pisco is claimed as the national spirit of both countries. 

Many Peruvians point to the etymology of ‘Pisco’ (which is the name of a Peruvian port town) to settle the dispute over which nation has first dibs ; Chileans meanwhile, claim pisco was created on their soil, when the two regions were both ruled by the Spanish Viceroyalty of Peru. It had many names, depending on where it came from, but the containers in which it was exported were stamped 'Pisco' simply because that was the port from which it emerged, after being transported from the interior. 

Whatever the truth about its origins, the stuff is ripe for a reappraisal - sales are booming in both the US and UK, as drinkers become better acquainted with the spirit. I met three Chilean pisco producers recently (Pisco Waqar, Pisco Kappa and Pisco El Gobernador) who educated me about the different ways it can be served, in a sneak preview of the two nights of pisco masterclasses they are running this weekend in London (all details below the cocktail recipes).

'Una botella y quatro bebidas', a bottle of pisco and four bottles of soft drinks, is how pisco is most often imbibed in Chile. No 50ml measures, presumably. The most popular mixer is cola, and the result is known as the 'piscóla' - with a generous squeeze of lime, it's an easy (but very sweet) long drink. 

More appealing is the 'pistón', pisco with tonic and a squeeze of lemon or lime. Spirits consultant Glen Hooper, suggested a twist: 'Our UK variation is the Admiral Cochrane which adds 1-2 teaspoons of elderflower cordial, garnished with lime wedge.' The elderflower brings out the floral qualities of a fine pisco; it's a zingy alternative to the vodka and tonic. You can also refresh well known cocktails such as the negroni, or caipirinha if you swap out the dominant spirit for pisco.

In fact, Ronnie Janssen of Kappa Pisco and Lapostolle Pisco believes a 'boredom with vodka, and a rise in interest in gin has led to an increase in sales of Chilean pisco which is naturally fragrant, as it is has muscat grapes at its heart. The wine is double distilled but retains all the floral characteristics that this grape is known for.' 

To whet your appetite, more pisco ideas below...

Chilean Pisco Sour 

INGREDIENTS

• 50ml Pisco Waqar

• 25ml fresh lime juice

• 25ml sugar syrup

• 1/2 egg white

METHOD

1. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass

Grapefruit Pisco Punch

By Pedro Solorzano, bar director at Hush

INGREDIENTS

• 50ml Pisco Waqar

• 10ml sugar syrup

• 25ml lemon juice

• 100ml pineapple juice

• 8 dashes grapefruit bitters

METHOD

1. Shake and pour into a highball over cubed ice, garnish with fresh grapefruit slices

Go Chile

By Pedro Solorzano, bar director at Hush

INGREDIENTS

• 50ml of pisco

• 60ml of grapefruit juice

• 15ml of Vanilla syrup

• 10 Blueberries

• 5 grapes

METHOD

1. Crush/muddle the blueberries and grapes in a shaker, add in other three ingredients and shake with ice

2. Fine strain into a long glass and garnish with blueberries. Serve in a long glass   

Casa Talahuen

INGREDIENTS

• 50ml of pisco

• 15ml elderflower cordial

• 10ml violet liqueur

• 6 black grapes

METHOD

1. Crush/muddle the grapes in a shaker, add in other ingredients and shake with ice 

2. Fine strain into a martini glass and garnish with cut grapes. Serve in a Martini glass

• Learn more about Chilean pisco at the Go Grape Pisco Masterclass and dining events, taking place on Friday 22nd and Saturday 23rd September, Hush Mayfair. Priced at £50 for 3 courses, including Chilean wine, Pisco cocktails and a mini-masterclass on pisco from Pisco Waqar, Pisco Kappa and Pisco El Gobernador, from  6.30pm to 9.30pm at Hush, Mayfair.

Tickets here