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Don't have harissa, sumac or buttermilk? Try these ingredients in their place

Aubergines roasted with sumac and cherry tomatoes 
Aubergines roasted with sumac and cherry tomatoes

Oh Ottolenghi. Always with your pinch of harissa and smidgen of sumac. Don’t you know people in the provinces haven’t heard of such things? The swanky shops of Soho might have all manner of ingredients – from pink peppercorns to horny goat weed – but foodies in the far-flung edges of civilization struggle to grease their eager palms with such fancies. We don’t all have a Waitrose up the road, you know – and some of us can’t be arsed to leave the house even if we do.

I’ve scoured food forums and cookery advice sites in search of quick fixes for anyone in need of a switcheroo in the kitchen. Don’t get disheartened. Get creative.

harissa - Credit: Heathcliff O'Malley
Can't find harissa paste? Make your own or use regular chili sauce Credit: Heathcliff O'Malley

Sumac

A Middle Eastern spice made from the dried fruit or drupes of the sumac plant, these powdered ‘berries’ (they’re not actually berries) impart a tart, tangy, lemony flavour when sprinkled on kebab meats, salads, and rice.

Ancient Romans were using sumac long before they were introduced to the mighty lemon and today in remote parts of Syria and Iraq, where lemons are sparse, sumac is a common ingredient.

It will come as no surprise then that all the best substitutes for sumac involve lemon, as you’re looking for that hint of sourness. Grated lemon zest mixed with salt or black pepper is one alternative. Jamie Oliver, however, swears by fresh lemon juice. 

Harissa

Harissa is a North African and Middle Eastern condiment, most commonly found in Tunisia and Morocco, that is made from garlic, cumin, caraway, pounded chilli peppers, salt and a dash of olive oil.

Harissa - Credit: Andrew Crowley
Harissa paste Credit: Andrew Crowley

As you can tell from those ingredients, harissa is essentially a red, fiery chilli paste. Therefore pretty much any chilli-based hot sauce will work as a substitute. You could also use chilli flakes pounded together with caraway seeds in a pestle and mortar, loosened with a few drops of olive oil. In all truth however, a standard hot sauce is the best way to go.

Buttermilk

To the milkmaids of yesteryear, buttermilk was a by-product of butter production – the milky liquid leftover after churning cream to make those slabs of sunshine-coloured heaven. Original buttermilk had the appearance of skimmed milk but the tartness of a sour cream.

Buttermilk  - Credit: Charlotte Graham
Buttermilk fried chicken with pancakes Credit: Charlotte Graham

Modern methods however, produce ‘cultured buttermilk’ in a much simpler way: fermenting skimmed milk with a special bacteria before killing said microbes with a touch of heat. Buttermilk is used in all types of cuisine, from Irish breads to American cupcakes.

Buttermilk, live or otherwise, is sometimes tricky to get hold of, but fear ye not, sour milk fans, this is one ingredient with a variety of alternatives on offer. The following formulas all work as buttermilk substitutes: Mix a cup of full fat or semi-skinned milk with a tablespoon of lemon juice or white vinegar (the acidic overtones bring out the sourness of the milk). Leave to stand for five minutes before using in your recipe.

For buttermilks in marinades, Nigella Lawson recommends using a mixture of plain yogurt and milk (with a 2/1 ratio). If you’re using Greek yogurt use half and half.

Pomegranate molasses

Pomegranate molasses is a sweet sugary syrup made from the reduction of pomegranate juice. It is used in Middle Eastern cuisine.

Pomegranate  - Credit: Dave King/Getty Images
Pomegranate molasses Credit: Dave King/Getty Images

This one is a tad tricky. A mix of honey, lemon and balsamic vinegar, reduced over a slow heat, can produce the syrupy gooeyness, if lacking the fruitiness of the pomegranate. Other suggestions include dates, tamarind, sugar and vinegar. A much better hack – yet one that may be equally difficult to get your oven gloves on – is to use crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur). Or, of course, simply reduce pomegranate juice yourself.

Star anise

These dried fruits of the evergreen tree family Illicaceae are indigenous to China. Despite the similar name and liquorice flavour, star anise is not related to anise. It does however share an essential oil, namely anethole.

Star anise  - Credit: Reuters 
A man holding star anise seeds in Gulong, China Credit: Reuters

Chinese Five Spice, which features star anise, is a valid substitute. But if you want to really grasp the aniseed flavour, I suggest using fennel tops or fennel seeds, although these can be somewhat sweeter. Aniseed is another worthy substitute and you can use whole seeds, ground seeds, extract or essential oil. Be warned though: star anise has a powerful kick so it maybe worth increasing the aniseed dosage. Say no to Pernod or Sambuca.

Ghee

Used for Indian cooking, ghee is clarified butter preferably made from cow or buffalo milk. The butter is clarified as follows: gently melt or ‘render’ unsalted butter over low heat until a white foam rests on top and the milk solids form a sediment at the bottom of the pan; skim the foam off and remove the milk solids and you’re left with a nutty butter that won’t burn (allowing for more flavour and heat) or need refrigeration. A kind of super butter, sans cape. 

ghee - Credit: Clara Molden
Ghee is commonly used in Indian curries Credit: Clara Molden

You can replace ghee with canola or olive oil. Quality is key here. The olive oil used should be high quality and preferably cold pressed. Olive oil has a much lower heat threshold, however, so ensure you cook your curry at a lower heat.