A food lover's tour of Hackney and Dalston with chef Tom Oldroyd

Madeleine Howell
Tom Oldroyd

Chef Tom Oldroyd has relaunched Hackney pub The Duke of Richmond, restoring it to its former glory with the addition of serving a French-inspired menu, using British seasonal produce.

A foodie famous for his flair, the pub is his second solo venture (after making his name as creative director at Polpo’s, he opened his eponymous restaurant Oldroyd on Islington’s Upper Street in 2015).

Here are his favourite local haunts to frequent near home in Hackney and Dalston during rare moments of downtime…

The Dusty Knuckle Bakery

“Dusty Knuckle is a social enterprise bakery housed in a big metal shipping container and they bake fresh, organic bread with traditional rotating stones, as well as pastries and the biggest, best sandwiches. I often go for the porchetta with salsa verde and braised spring onions.”

Abbot Street, London E8 3DP; 020 3903 7598; thedustyknuckle.com

Hill & Szrok

“Hill & Szrok is a traditional butcher’s shop during the day, but it turns into a brilliant neighbourhood restaurant in the evening with a blackboard menu of starter plates, such as anchovies and veal tartare followed by steaks, pork chops and side salads. It’s intimate, with a sharing table, and very good wines. They’ve also set up a takeaway rotisserie outside for grilled chicken to takeaway and eat on London Fields.”

60 Broadway Market, London E8 4QJ; hillandszrok.co.uk

Broadway Market

“On Saturdays, I meander up and down buying seasonal fruit and veg at the market. My favourite street food stall is Deeney’s, which is famous for haggis toasties: there’s the Hamish Macbeth with haggis, smoked bacon, cheddar, caramelised onion and rocket, and the vegetarian Lady Macbeth. I also recommend the fried chicken wrap at the Katsu Wraps stall – it’s possibly the best £5 you could spend.”

Broadway Market, London E8 4QJ; broadwaymarket.co.uk

40ft Brewery

“I buy a lot of beer for the pub at this microbrewery, which is open to the public at the weekends. We serve it on tap: I like the 40ft Pale Ale and the Disco Pils pilsner, as well as their Street Weiss wheat beer. They’re great guys.”

18a Ashwin Street, London E8 3DL; 40ftbrewery.com

L'eau à La Bouche

"This cafe-deli also has a market stall on a Saturday. I always pick up some cheese there at the weekends: I go for the aged comté and goat’s cheese, because I love it, and their quince jelly. Last time I was there I had an incredible blueberry pie."

35–37 Broadway Market London E8 4PH; 020 7923 0600; labouche.co.uk

Borough Wines and Beer

Borough Wines

“This is just around the corner from my house, and it has an interesting selection. You can try and taste, and if you’re after a house red or white, you can refill your own bottle from their wine kegs, to reduce packaging. I’m a big fan of that.”

67 Wilton Way, E8 1BG, 020 7923 2001; boroughwines.co.uk

The Duke of Richmond, 316 Queensbridge Road, London E8 3NH; 020 7923 3990; thedukeofrichmond.com

Local heroes | Food insiders reveal their neighbourhood favourites