Kendall, Gigi and Bella walk in a Burberry AW20 show inspired by Riccardo Tisci's time living in London

Chloe Street
AFP via Getty Images

Riccardo Tisci’s tenure at the house of Burberry has been a walk down memory lane.

Certainly, the Italian designer’s first two years at the British super brand have been loaded with moments of reflection with the former Central Saint Martin’s student perennially inspired by the memories of his previous London life.

Tisci studied in the city during the late Nineties, before leaving for Paris where he would emerge as a fashion heavyweight as head of Givenchy. It is this nostalgia for his formative years spent immersed here that inspired the designer’s latest collection, unveiled in the capital tonight, with everything from the places he visited as a student to the music he listened to at the time among his references.

“This is the place that I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today” noted Tisci ahead of a show, “I have this strong feeling of pride when I think about the early days of my career, when I was an emerging designer still learning my craft and taking inspiration wherever I could find”.

The collection, a wearable representation of some of those memories, saw everything from oversized cricket sweaters, rugby stripes and sportswear unveiled on the catwalk alongside the slick and streamlined Burberry aesthetic that defines Tisci’s time at the brand.

Burberry AW20 show (AFP via Getty Images)

Polished with a youthful edge, the show combined sharp tailoring with playful jewel encrusted cocktail gowns and billowing leopard print alongside oversized trench coats inset with corseted woollen panels and patchwork plaid.

Keen to continue with his reclamation of the house’s signature check, Tisci unveiled oversized coats in the motif and cigarette cut trousers which were presented alongside blazers cut from Prince of Wales check.

Supersized carry on style bags figured among the designer’s accessory options. A new take on the trainer also stood out.

(AFP via Getty Images)

In a moment that was perhaps more reflective of the Burberry of old, quilted jackets and jodhpurs, reminiscent of the Queen’s best Balmoral looks, were also on offer.

Since taking on the colossal Burberry empire in 2018, Tisci has sought to inject the storied British brand with a playful and youthfully spirited point of view while enlisting a globally minded customer.

Newly developed brand associations with icons for the Instagram generation are among the latest developments in this reinvention tactic.

Accordingly, current campaign stars Gigi and Bella Hadid ranked among the line up of models on the catwalk tonight.

Kendall Jenner, a family friend of Tisci’s, also played a leading role.

When it came to the front row, Londoners reigned supreme with Naomi Campbell and Primal Scream’s Bobby Gillespie among the VIP attendees.

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