Yahoo News Not just for Christmas: support your local independent wine shop
Even the most curmudgeonly and Scrooge-like among you has probably started to give some thought to the necessity of ordering food for Christmas, especially if it’s something in limited supply such as a rare-breed turkey or a goose. While you may normally shop in the supermarket, it may be a time of year when you feel you want to patronise your local butcher or buy direct from the producer. But do you feel the same about wine?
If not, and if you care about the continuing presence of independent wine shops on the high street, you should. In fact, you should give them some of your custom year-round, not least because they have far more interesting wines than the supermarkets, as well as staff who can help match them to your personal taste. I’m not saying buy everything from an independent – well, not unless you’ve got deep enough pockets to – but rather to use them to source your most interesting bottles. I’ve yet to find a worthwhile supermarket barolo, for example, and top-end, own-label bordeaux is generally underwhelming, but supermarkets absolutely deliver on party wines such as cheap prosecco and cut-price sauvignon blanc.
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Where the indies shine is in stocking wines that are under the radar, such as those that are just over the border from a more prestigious appellation such as the unclassified vin de France from Domaine Vallet in today’s panel, which is just next door to Saint-Joseph, one of the best appellations in the northern Rhône. Apart from chablis, I’d generally rather buy white burgundy from an indie than from the big négociants on which the supermarkets generally rely. And if you can set aside your preference for grande marque or big-name champagnes such as Bollinger or Moët et Chandon, you’ll find the growers’ champagnes that the indies stock much more interesting, and possibly cheaper, too. (Side note: don’t be taken in by the apparent size of supermarket discounts on big-name champagnes – always check online to see if there’s a better deal elsewhere.)
One thing you should go to a supermarket for, or, more specifically, Waitrose for, however, is sherry. They currently have an incredible buy in their “on the QT” range, which refers to limited-edition wines that are not generally on offer but sold on the quiet. It’s the Bin 20 Palo Cortado 2011 (£19.99 online only from waitrosecellar.com, 17%), which you may be lucky enough to still find. The Palo Cortado (£11.99, 19%) is a delicious alternative.
Four wines to buy from an indy
Lorgeril Syrah Viognier Pays D’Oc L’Orangeraie 2018
£7.95 The Wine Society, 13.5%.
It’s worth joining the society just to get your hands on this gorgeous, juicy red that is better than most supermarkets can offer at the price.
Ritou Syrah Domaine Vallet 2018
£14.45 (or £12.75 for an unsplit case) Haynes Hanson & Clark, 13%.
Dark, intense, thrilling and spicy. Saint-Joseph in all but name.
Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Auxerre Sorin Coquard 2016
£14.75 Private Cellar, 13%.
Smooth, sophisticated, creamy, almost chablis-like. Perfect for fish pie.
Morgon Côte du Py 2017
Jean Marc Burgaud £15.50 The Wine Society, £39.95 by the magnum Berry Bros & Rudd, 13%.
Beautiful, bright beaujolais that will age, if you can wait that long. Pure pleasure.
