Is Shellac over? Why traditional nail polish is making a comeback

The Prestige Nail Market has been in double-digit decline for the last 2 years, according to market research company, NPD Group. The ease and convenience of gel manicures are in part to blame – you can barely swing a cat without hitting a therapist wielding a UV lamp. But according to Mintel, things are on the up for the humble nail polish, with the market poised to report a 10% global growth for 2019.

Why the sudden lift? Cost may be a factor, as we collectively brace for a financial cold snap post-Brexit. Rather than spending the £20-£30 on a bi-weekly gel manicure, changing up your colour with a polish could cost less than a coffee (Rimmel’s 60 Seconds Super Shine Nail Polish and Lottie London Lottie Lacquers are both just £2 a pop), without the commitment to a professional gel removal. Or torn up nails when you try and peel it off yourself (we’ve all been there).

Thea Green, founder and CEO of Nails INC. cites another Mintel stat as a clue to polish’s comeback: 31% of those who use nail products are now concerned around chemicals: “Our customer is definitely coming to us for more natural, vegan and free-from formulas which are kinder to nails,” she says.

It’s true that what began as the reserve of niche ‘green’ brands eschewing traditional polish ingredients like formaldehyde, toluene and camphor in favour of more naturally derived alternatives is now a mainstream movement. This has been in the works for some time, but now it seems like the creases have been ironed out – creases like brands substituting endocrine-disrupting DnBP for TPHP, another endocrine-disruptor.

Now it’s evolved beyond a bandwagon to a legitimate category, and the big nail brands all want in. Nails INC is one: their Nailpure vegan 10-free range (£15) is one of my favourites.

Ok, so the suggestion that they’re also ‘breathable’ thanks to an ‘air permeable’ formulation is a little confusing, since nails – made of non-living keratin – don’t tend to breathe. But still, the fact is these polishes perform well without some of the more controversial ingredients.

Nail care is also key to the polish game reigning supreme again – the healthier your nails, the longer your polish lasts. Remove & Chill £14.25 is a gamechanger in that regard – it’s a cream that you leave on your nails for a minute, then massage and wipe away. Rich in oils and vitamin E, it’s more pampering than the usual splash of paint stripper, so if you’re changing colours regularly, this will make it a gentler process. If you prefer a liquid formula, Kure Bazaar – one of the original free-from brands – has just launched A La Rose Polish Remover £19. It’s 100% natural, unscented and hydrates cuticles while it gently removes polish.

It’s also simply a fact that nail polish itself has got better. I’m currently on day 6 of Barry M Gelly Hi Shine Nail Paint in Pink Lemonade £3.99. The textures are more interesting too – Ciate’s Gelology polishes (£12 each) come in both holographic and pearlescent-glitter finishes (I love Forbidden Fruit on short nails), while Nailberry have finally nailed the elusive flattering white with White Mist (£14.50) – it’s like semi-skimmed milk: not as watery as skimmed, but not as opaque as whole milk, it’s just right. And this one is 12-free and cruelty-free, too.

Christian Louboutin has brought the same fetishistic obsession all genders have for his shoes to polish. The outrageous bottle, beautifully engineered brush and sublime colours are a true masterclass in the ritual of self-polishing. His new collection LoubiGraffiti features what I’m sure is basically Farrow and Ball’s Theresa’s Green for your nails – under the guise of Nail Colour in Batignolles. They’re £38 each, but you just don’t get the same mad endorphin rush with a gel manicure.

The technology around polish is satisfyingly evolved too. At the front is Harpreet Birdi’s NailBuff app, which allows users to search for polish colours, either by using a unique touch-screen colour changing technology or uploading a photo of a bag, dress or shoe that they want to match. The results can then be filtered to exclude products containing certain chemicals or types of packaging.

And for many – like me – polish is just more convenient and less restrictive than a gel manicure. “I like to change my colour often,” says Millie Kendall, co-founder of the British Beauty Council, “A massive array of colours and textures appeals more than being stuck with the same colour for weeks. It’s the body’s best accessory so I use it to express myself. [With polish] a colour change is cost effective and low on time consumption.” Long live the humble polish.

6 ways to make your polish last according to Sherrille Riley, founder of Nails & Brows Mayfair ( & the Duchess of Sussex's go-to brow expert)

1. For a long lasting manicure, first ensure that the nails are perfectly shaped, ideally, squoval - square shaped nails with the sides slightly rounded off - to prevent the nails from breaking, causing chipped polish.

2. The cuticles should be gently pushed back but not trimmed. To do this, use a hot hand towel, wrap it around the thumb and gently pushing the cuticles back.

3. Gently buff the nails to remove excess oils and creams, this will ensure the polish adhere to the nails properly for a long lasting manic

4. Wipe the nails clean, using a non acetone nail polish remover, apply a base coat, let it dry for one minute then apply two coats of your selected nail colour.

5. Apply a top coat to ensure the polish durability.

6. The best way to prolong your polish is to apply another layer of top coat over your existing polish three days in, but first, ensure that the nails are free from oils and creams by wiping them clean with a damp cotton wool.

Five nail polishes worth trying

Nails INC Nailpure Vegan 10-free Nail Polish in It’s Cool To Be Kind £15

Barry M Gelly Hi Shine Nail Paint in Pink Lemonade £3.99

Ciate Gelology Nail Polish in Forbidden Fruit £12

Nailberry Oxygenated Nail Lacquer in White Mist £14.50

Christian Louboutin LoubiGraffiti Nail Colour in Batignolles £38

Remove & Chill £14.25 Kure Bazaar A La Rose Polish Remover £19

Do you think Shellac is over? Or will you still choose gel over a regular manicure? Tell us what you think in the comments section below.