Fay Maschler's week in food, from Sticky Mango to Vardo

Flank steak cooked over fire at Zoilo off Wigmore Street. I’d forgotten how likeable is this snug Argentinean place. Also proveleta, barbequed cheese with almonds and oregano honey.

The Gang of Four – aim: lunch no more than a two-hour train journey away – are in Bristol’s littlefrench booked months ago after a rave O’Loughlin review. Roast squab pigeon with chanterelles, girolles and black truffle. Ooh la la.

The eponymous dessert made with black rice concludes a beguiling 11-course Taste of Indonesia menu at South Bank’s Sticky Mango.

Garam masala labneh, fenugreek-chilli butter, spiced chickpeas and house flat bread at Vardo in Chelsea from those tireless Caravanners.

Blessed to have John Lanchester choosing at Chinatown’s Food House. Mellifluous is stir-fried eggs with tomatoes – an ingredient the perplexed Chinese apparently once termed barbarian aubergines.