Giorgio Armani Privé Fall 2024 Couture: Girl With a Pearl Everything

What makes something “profoundly Armanian?” Giorgio Armani dropped this made-up word — a descriptor somewhat akin to Prada-ness — in the press notes for his fall show, which was dedicated to pearly colors, pearl-like textures and pearl-shaped embellishments.

Well lo and behold, the collection positively oozed Armani-ness and ranks as one of his best in years, cementing his reputation as a master of the evening pantsuit, and the king of sleek, red-carpet gowns. The whole production was also very Armani: a prompt start, a bright, air-conditioned room with a pearlescent runway, and a toe-tapping soundtrack of jazz and big band sounds.

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Stars will surely be clamoring for his arresting black velvet evening columns with a spectacular array of beaded bodices, flattering necklines, daring décolletés and various pearl embellishments. Sometimes all it took was a little dusting of pearls on the strap of a one-shouldered velvet dress to create a spine-tingling degree of understated chic.

His pantsuits were equally compelling, their full-legged trousers with flattering fits teamed with neat, mostly hip-length jackets that became more dazzling as the show progressed.

After a black-and-white cardigan style strolled by in a trembling lattice of pearls that approximated tweed, followed by a few models sporting fingerless gloves, one guest whispered with a wry smile: “Does he want the job at Chanel?”

To be sure, the Italian designer, who launched his Armani Privé couture collection in 2005, now ranks as one of high-fashion’s most gifted practitioners, turning out clothes with refinement, class and a level of craftsmanship that rivals the big French houses.

He married simple cuts to dense embellishments: jet-bead fringing on long, sheer shirts; caviar-like surfaces on roomy pants and waist-cinched jackets, and glass-like opalescent fabrics for curve-hugging gowns and mesmerizing trousers.

The show pinged between gowns and pantsuits as the designer cycled through color groupings, starting with gold, and then working through pearly whites, black and then back to gold and tawny shades.

He showed 89 looks to match his age, and each was a pearl.

Among guests at Armani’s second show were Ami Paris designer Alexandre Mattiussi, and Simon Porte Jacquemus, a self-declared fan of vintage Armani, which he collections and wears.

“I have mentioned him several times in my inspirations. He is always in my mood boards,” Jacquemus said. “We wanted to meet several times, and we finally met at his show.”

“I’m always very impressed by the longevity, the persistence and consistency of his collections over the years, with all my love and respect,” said Mattuissi, adding that he found the designer “at the top of his art” on Tuesday night.

“Armani couture at 1,000 percent,” he explained. In other words, extremely Armanian.

For more couture fall 2024 reviews, click here.

Launch Gallery: Armani Privé Fall 2024 Couture

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