I paid to cross famous Penmaenpool toll bridge but not everyone is as happy

Penmaenpool toll bridge near Dolgellau
-Credit: (Image: David Powell)


The much-loved toll bridge at Penmaenpool near Dolgellau is a "must see" for bikers and hikers. Visitors on two wheels, and probably four, seek it out as do walking "pilgrims" on the Mawddach Trail.

I was in the area and decided to cross it myself, having only ever passed through Dolgellau in the past. The car park is decent, it's near the George III pub, and it's an undeniably scenic spot by the Afon Mawddach.

Before I reached the bridge itself I saw a plaque on an outbuilding in memory of the poor souls lost in a 1966 tragedy when a pleasure boat crashed into the bridge. Despite the frantic efforts of local residents 15 people from the vessel "Prince of Wales" died.

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Built in 1879, the bridge is hugely popular today, less as a way of shortening a route between the A496 and A493, bypassing Llanelltyd, but more as a tourist attraction per se. That's the impression I got chatting to the friendly chappie at the cabin collecting the 30p toll fee for pedestrians.

He said motorcyclists - some from the Netherlands and Switzerland - seek out this crossing and stop to take photos. Today there was a vehicle, cyclist or pedestrian crossing every minute or two. One motorist paid £1 by contactless card as I suppose fewer of us have cash these days.

The toll keeper collects the £1 fee from a driver on Penmaenpool toll bridge
The toll keeper collects the £1 fee from a driver on Penmaenpool toll bridge -Credit:David Powell

There was once, however, a gentleman from Birmingham who had paid the not inconsiderable M6 toll fee and when he reached Penmaenpool begrudged paying the £1 toll for drivers to cross the bridge.

But the takings do go towards the running costs and upkeep of the bridge. So I paid 40p with two 20p pieces and urged the toll keeper not to bother with any change as it's a such good cause. (Last of the big spenders!)

He thanked me and was keen for me to remind people that there is a 5mph speed limit on the bridge which not everyone keeps to. Anyway, I was on foot and set off over the swirling waters of the winding river.

A plaque in memory of 15 people who died when a pleasure boat hit Penmaenpool toll bridge near Dolgellau on July 22, 1966
A plaque in memory of 15 people who died when a pleasure boat hit Penmaenpool toll bridge near Dolgellau on July 22, 1966 -Credit:David Powell

It's a black and white structure in a gently, humpbacked shape and has perhaps become iconic in North Wales rather like the Barmouth Viaduct.

It only takes a minute or two to cross it but I was impressed by the planks in a herringbone-pattern on either side of the horizontal-patterned, central section. The patinated timber has the "distressed pine" look that people go for but this was the legacy of countless soles and tyres.

Penmaenpool toll bridge near Dolgellau
Penmaenpool toll bridge near Dolgellau -Credit:David Powell

On the way back it was another chance to take in the tranquil estuary with Cadair Idris nearby. I imagine it's quite a raw and exposed place in winter but this Thursday morning it was a sun-dappled haven, albeit with a freshening breeze.

Sheep were grazing contentedly on the riverbanks among the swaying grass and I felt curiously fulfilled as I reached dry land. It had been a bit like a rite of passage to cross this famous, old structure and now, thankfully, I had done it.

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